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Kerala's
famous backwaters comprise of vast lakes and a
system of narrow canals and waterways linking
them to one another. Not so long ago, these
waterways served as the backbone of Kerala's
transportation. And Kumarakom is the ideal
place to experience the backwaters. Coconut
Lagoon has rightly carved its place among the
top 10 heritage resorts of the world. The
resort is on a small island and can be reached
only by boat. The accommodation consists of
individual cottages built in the traditional
Kerala style, relying heavily on wood and some
with private pools. The bathrooms are open to
the sky and the restaurant specializes in
Kerala cuisine peculiar to the region.
Activities here are just lazing in the
swimming pool with Jacuzzi, walks in the
nearby coconut groves or paddy fields, sunset
cruises etc.
Muted
as the dawn itself, the alarm cry of a
solitary pond heron breaks the early morning
stillness as a dugout canoe, paddled by two
fishermen, glides across the water at a
determined but unhurried pace. The scene is
idyllic, the mood dreamlike. Kerala’s back
country waterways seem far removed from the
universe most of us inhabit, yet they are
linked to the rest of the world in a very real
way, and have been for at least two millennia.
In earlier times, if less so today, these very
waterways were the staring point for the
transport of South Indian spices, which
eventually found their way to the distant
shores of Europe and beyond. Formed by the 40-
odd rivers that flow down to the Arabian Sea
form the Cardamom Hills in the Western Ghats,
this network of rivers, canals, lakes and
estuaries compromises one of India’s most
beautiful areas a rural, river in expanse of
verdant coconut groves and rice paddies. In
Malayalam, the language of Kerala, the
backwaters are known as Kuttanad, "the land of
the short people," a reference, perhaps, to
the face that the farmers seen working here
are often knee-deep in paddy fields,
For centuries the backwaters have provided a
safe and efficient means of transportation for
goods and people moving between the interior
and the port towns along the coast, Even
today, coconuts, pepper, coir, rice, and other
such products of the region are carried along
these waterways in traditional boats called
Kettuvallam (stitched canoes), and village
children are ferried off to school in all
sorts of country craft.
Location:
10 Kms
from Kottayam, 78 Kms from Cochin. Direct
ferry from Casino Hotel, Cochin, also travel
half - way by road and take the ferry from
Tanneermukkam jetty or Kumarakom.
The
Restaurant: Cited in
Arundhati Roy’s Booker Prize – winning
best-seller, "the God of Small thing," the
restaurant at Coconut Lagoon is renewed as
much for its superb Kerala cuisine (vegetarian
and no vegetarian alike) as for its authentic
setting, and is housed in one of the resort’s
most impressive Tharavadu. Known as Ettukettu,
the building incorporates two atriun-like
courtyards under an expansive tile roof
supported by dozens o slim columns, a design
that enables the space within to benefit from
the slightest breeze. The restaurant is the
oldest Structure at Coconut Lagoon, and it,
too, formerly belonged to a prominent
Malayalee Family living in a nearby village.
Cuisine: Ethnic and international (buffet).
The Accommodation:
14
Heritage Mansions, 28 Heritage Bungalows.
Though some of the cottages are of more recent
vintage, many are well over a century old and
a few actually date back to the early 1700s.
The resort can only be reached by boat and its
accommodation consists of individual cottages
called Tharavadu, t he
traditional wooden house of Kerala. Coconut
Lagoon's cottages feature ultramodern
bathrooms, each located in an inner courtyard
boasting its own banana tree. Through all the
cottages vary in configuration, and some of
the air-conditioned units are newly built
replicas in corporation only fragments of old
Tharavadu that could not be saved in their
entirety, Coconut Lagoon offers two basic
types of accommodation: Heritage Mansion and
Heritage Bungalows. The former has two
stories, the upstairs bedroom gallery offering
particularly magnificent views of Lake
Vembanad. The latter are more compact, single
– level cottages. Both are furnished in Aiyny
and Jack Woods, and retain all the charm of
original family homes, with thick, solid
doors, intricate window carvings, and terra
cotta tile floors. Structurally necessary
alterations have been carried out with
consummate discretion, i.e., in keeping with
the style and décor of the era, and great
attention has been paid to very detail. The
lamp stands in each Tharavadu, for example,
having been carved from old wooden
hinges. Traditionally, of course, Keralites
bathed in the rivers – in rural areas many
people still do – but Coconut Lagoon’s
cottages feature ultramodern bathrooms, each
located in an inner courtyard boasting its own
banana (or coconut) tree, so you can shower al
fresco under a starlit sky in complete and
utter privacy.
Recreation :
The Cashew Shaped pool, slightly elevated to
give a commanding view is popular including
the honeymoon couples who swim there in the
early evening to the sounds of Indian
classical music drifting across from the
Garden Café. For those who prefer not to
venture beyond the bounds of the resort
itself, there are plenty of things to do.
Simple bamboo fishing poles are available,
too, and though the restaurant offers many
fine seafood dishes on its ever-varied lunch
and dinner menus, the chef nonetheless
promises to cook any fish an angler catches
from the lagoon. Be warned, however, that no
prizes are given for catching a monster from
the fish farm within the confines of the
hotel, though no punishment is meted out for
doing so, either.
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